I nonetheless don’t have pics nevertheless, I’ve just been fast paced with a bunch of stuff right this moment — but I am able to go around a handful of things that you should Examine/do.
The encoder motor is the first thing that concerns thoughts. Once more, I haven't tried this, but when it had been me, I'd attempt to disconnect the encoder motor and try again (this might not work as being the procedure may detect the unplugged encoder rather than try out to engage 4WD — the sprint lights need to flash if it’s trying to have interaction 4WD). Should you don’t blow a fuse Using the encoder motor changed, you have discovered your trouble — well, type of. From there it could both be the motor itself, a physical obstruction of the motor (the shaft could possibly be frozen (corrosion) for the transfer situation stopping the motor from going) or wiring among the encoder motor and also the TCCM (a short from offer to ground).
The TCCM clicks and we can easily listen to a motor running if we press the two higher button however the two large light-weight flashes and afterwards goes off. I am able to’t get in into a mechanic for several days. My spouse And that i want to know If we unplug the wire harnesses within the TCCM and go away them unplugged until I may get for the mechanic, will that hurt anything? Many thanks for the help
The transfer situation In this particular car is weak — it's a layout flaw in it from your factory. You will find there's “fork†(for lack of a greater phrase) having a plastic bushing during the TC that wears out and enables the gears to drift — mine ended up just replaced (the forks are already redesigned) with not many hours on them. In reality, mine have been worn so terrible that the gears had been rubbing the case and might have rubbed through the TC, experienced I left it as is, within the very near future.
Now, You will find there's sensor over the front, appropriate hub to detect when it's engaged — I have not tried out this, so I don’t know a hundred% obviously, but if the front, proper hub isn't partaking, the program ought to detect this and never enter 4WD.
.for every day or two, then the module, took it aside The entire issue…that worked for some time, now it’s something else…not the module it’s been checked, anywhere else on this factor that can trigger problems with 4 wheel push…utilised a test mild there’s electricity there, Even though the lights don’t occur on…make sure you support the snow are going to be slipping quickly, and I hope this winter I may need the 4×4 I payed for…
PS – the flashing change lights point out the method is trying to talk to the remainder of the procedure. When it stops, it means it could not talk to part of the system.
must i be unplugging my tccm and resetting the method right after i change to encoder motor. I believed it absolutely was a transfer scenario proplem because I assumed it was binding up rather than allowing teh encoder motor start out in 2wd.
Regretably, it’s here been almost nine years due to the fact I sold my Blazer and also have no additional info for yourself other that what has previously been posted here.
I don’t Assume this is probably going to be your difficulty as it is best to most likely listen to the encoder motor running (modifying the travel mode from 2Hi to 4Hi/4Lo) — but there's a sensor over the hub to inform the TCCM when it's engaged, so it could be problem.
As I am not a mechanic, anything which i find out about the Blazer 4WD technique has, practically, been posted below — you only really need to browse.
Place a examination lead (volt meter) over the output with the 4Lo button… if you press 4 Lo, does the meter show that there's electric power leaving the button? (It must, if what I'm looking at here is accurate… and I’m studying it correctly.) Now, do precisely the same for 4Hi (do both equally checks in park) — does it output the same as 4Lo? If not, you might would like to examine the harness within the buttons a bit more carefully very first, and afterwards test applying electricity to your output facet on the 4Hi button (exactly the same stage since the output from 4Lo, whether or not or not it's +12VDC or +5VDC… I’m considering it should be +12VDC nevertheless).
Effectively, that’s about all I am able to think of at the moment — if I imagine the rest, I’ll update this post.
I’ve nonetheless bought to have some schematics posted for one more guest poster over — hopefully I'll remember to do so today. Regards;